After a chilly night at White Horse Hill campsite, I rose early to tackle the Hooker Valley Track in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. White Horse Hill is one of dozens of campsites operated by New Zealand’s Department of Conservation, providing affordable or even free options for travelers to experience the country’s wild landscapes up close. With the crisp morning air and clear, sunny skies, it was an ideal start for one of South Island’s most iconic day hikes.
This 10-kilometer return trail winds through alpine meadows, glacial streams, and ancient moraine valleys. Swing bridges span over powerful, icy rivers below, with each bridge revealing fresh angles of Mount Cook's snowy peaks looming ahead. Small avalanches thundered down distant slopes, adding a touch of drama to an already stunning landscape. The hike, taking just over three hours, offered an incredible reward for the relatively easy effort required, with sweeping views of the Southern Alps unfolding at each step. I returned to the campsite exhilarated and ready for the next adventure...
From here, I drove to Lake Tekapo for an eagerly awaited stargazing tour with the Dark Sky Project at Mount John Observatory. Perched atop Mount John, 1,029 meters above sea level, the observatory offers some of the darkest, clearest skies in the Southern Hemisphere, making it an ideal site for observing the cosmos. Managed by the University of Canterbury, the observatory houses powerful telescopes used for both public tours and scientific research, contributing to global astronomy.
Initially, the skies were overcast, and I faced the disappointing news that the 8 p.m. tour I had booked was canceled. But there was a slim chance to try again at midnight if I wanted to come back later. This was not an opportunity I wanted to miss so I agreed to come back at 12.
As midnight approached, the clouds cleared just in time, revealing a glittering sky. A short minibus ride later, our guide Oscar led us through the Southern Hemisphere’s stellar highlights, from Saturn’s rings to Jupiter, the Southern Cross, myriad other constellations and stars such as Alpha Centauri, that can only be viewed in the southern hemisphere. Peering through the observatory’s telescopes, we witnessed these celestial bodies with astonishing clarity, making the late hour and the biting cold well worth it.
The following morning, I couldn’t resist a return trip up to the top of Mount John to see the observatory in daylight. The quick drive was worth it for the phenomenal views alone—Lake Tekapo and the surrounding mountains stretched out in an endless panorama. I also grabbed a coffee at the Astro Café, perched atop the peak, and enjoyed one last look over the landscape that had given me such an unforgettable night.
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