Weekend in Canberra: A Sydney Escape
It began with the unmistakable early-morning buzz outside Sydney Central Station, where I boarded a Murray’s coach for the quick dash down to Canberra (the train being otherwise unavailable due to engineering works - no different to the UK then). Three-and-a-bit hours passed by in a hazy whirl of farmland, rolling hills, and the vast, almost mystical stretch of Lake George—an endorheic lake that appears as if from nowhere, sometimes water, sometimes dry. It’s a trip that, while practical, carries a certain poetic charm, especially in the early light.
Canberra, a city often maligned for being all politics and little fun, quickly dispelled any misgivings upon arrival. The Village hostel (formerly YHA), where I checked in, greeted me with the future: smartphone electronic keys—slick but somewhat fiddly. Once inside, I dropped my bags and headed out for a leisurely mooch.
The day was perfect for a stroll around the vast Lake Burley Griffin, the city’s central, calming expanse of water. I wandered past the National Gallery, a brief stop to soak in some of its modern offerings, and continued toward the Carillon, its chiming bells adding a unique soundtrack to the otherwise still afternoon. Canberra, at times, can feel almost too quiet, but that’s also its appeal—it invites you to slow down.
Sunday started in the heart of the parliamentary zone, and the pre-booked tour of Parliament House was a real highlight. It’s hard not to be impressed by the grandeur of the building itself, but the tour went far beyond the architectural details. A concise history of Australian democracy flowed effortlessly as we were led through both chambers—House of Representatives and Senate—each with its distinct character and sense of purpose.
Afterward, to rest my legs, I opted for an e-scooter—my first go on one—and zipping through Canberra’s flat streets was surprisingly liberating. That is, until I experienced one of Australia’s lesser-known hazards: the dreaded magpie. Mid-scoot, I found myself dive-bombed by an irate bird, swooping low in warning. It’s the sort of unexpected thrill you don’t sign up for, but it certainly added a touch of adrenaline to the ride.
My destination, the National Museum of Australia, proved a bit underwhelming. With several exhibits closed and the layout feeling somewhat disjointed, it lacked the cohesive narrative I was hoping for.
On the way back, however, I stumbled upon Floriade in Commonwealth Park—a delightful surprise. The annual spring flower festival is one of the city’s bright spots, and this year’s vibrant tulip displays were in full bloom. The whole park was bursting with life, from the intricate floral arrangements to the throngs of visitors admiring them. A lively atmosphere that felt miles away from the otherwise understated capital, it was a joyous reminder of Canberra’s hidden gems.
By afternoon, it was time for a reward, and Canberra delivered with BentSpoke Brewery in Civic. The laid-back vibe was perfect for unwinding after the day’s explorations. A refreshing pint of locally brewed ale was the ideal cap to the weekend, making me reconsider this oft-overlooked capital as a place with much more to offer than just politics.
Monday arrived too soon, and with an early start, I checked out of the hostel and stored my bags. Keen to make the most of my remaining time, I zipped off on the scooter again—this time to the Australian War Memorial. What a place. One of the best war museums I have ever visited, it was brilliantly curated with top-quality exhibits that told a profoundly moving story. The memorial struck a deep chord, offering insight into Australia's military history and the human cost of war in a way few other places manage.
With a bit of time left, I squeezed in a second visit to the National Gallery of Australia. On my first visit, I had missed Sidney Nolan's Ned Kelly Series, and I wasn’t about to leave Canberra without seeing it. I’m glad I went back—these paintings were astonishing. The naive style and bold, bright colors brought the Australian outlaw to life, and seeing them all together in one space made a significant impact. It was a fitting final cultural note to an unexpectedly rich weekend in Canberra.
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