My journey to the New South Brighton campsite on Friday night was anything but promising – the skies opened up as I parked, and a steady rain poured down, battering the campervan roof. Christchurch wasn’t quite presenting its best welcome, but I hoped that come morning, the city would change its tune.
Saturday: Embracing Christchurch Indoors
Saturday morning dawned… still rainy. With the drumming of raindrops as my soundtrack, I decided it was clearly a day for exploring the city’s indoor attractions. I caught the bus into Christchurch’s city center and began my day navigating the city’s impressive cultural sites.
As I entered the heart of Christchurch, the sight of the city’s iconic red trams rattling along in the rain added a quaint, nostalgic charm to the otherwise grey morning. Their bright color and persistent presence amid the puddles and damp streets gave the feeling that the spirit of Christchurch endures, even on a wet and dreary day. In Cathedral Square, the majestic Christchurch Cathedral, half-shrouded in scaffolding and tarpaulins, stood as a reminder of resilience. The ongoing restoration effort is a testament to the city’s determination to revive and preserve its heritage in the wake of disaster.
Quake City Exhibition
First stop was Quake City, a profound exhibit dedicated to the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes that changed Christchurch’s landscape and community forever. The exhibition masterfully balances technical details with deeply human stories, revealing the extent of resilience in the wake of destruction. I was drawn into the personal accounts and videos, which brought home the sheer impact of these events. It’s a reminder of how deeply cities and their people can be transformed, both physically and emotionally, by natural disasters.
Christchurch Art Gallery
Next, I sought out the Christchurch Art Gallery, where the rain outside only heightened the cozy brilliance of the exhibits within. The “From Here on the Ground” exhibition was an unexpected revelation. This collection of New Zealand regionalism included brilliant works by artists like Rita Angus, whose precise lines and bold, bright colors offered a unique vision of the New Zealand landscape. Her works portrayed the land with a striking clarity and attention to form, emphasizing both structure and simplicity. Other artists in the exhibition brought a "Hopper-esque" sensibility to quiet town scenes and industrial landscapes, capturing the solitude and stillness of isolated towns and deserted streets. These paintings conveyed a mood that was introspective yet starkly honest, showing small-town life as both resilient and quietly enduring. A free tour provided thoughtful insights into these works, making the experience both enlightening and grounding.
Riverside Market & Canterbury Brewers Collective
After a day of art and history, I wandered over to Riverside Market in search of refreshment. The market has a vibrant, communal feel – the smell of fresh produce and sizzling dishes fills the air, and you can sense Christchurch’s heart in the mingling of locals and visitors alike. I found my way to the Canterbury Brewers Collective, where craft beer reigns supreme. The selection was impressive, the atmosphere infectious, and after a long day indoors, the brews were the perfect capstone. (For those interested, you’ll find a few favorites on my Untappd profile!)
With the rain still gently falling, I made my way back to the campsite, catching the bus once again. Christchurch’s public transport system is well-organized, safe and clean, making it easy to navigate even on a rainy night.
Sunday: Exploring Canterbury from the Heights to Akaroa
Sunday brought a welcome reprieve from the rain and a new plan – it was time to head up, into the hills and beyond. After breakfast, I drove to the Christchurch cable car for a ride to Mount Cavendish. The ascent offered breathtaking views of the Canterbury Plains stretching out below, and from the summit, I took in the rugged beauty of the region over a warm coffee.
I then set out on a walk toward the Pioneer Women’s Memorial. The journey was peaceful, the landscape expansive and serene – a world away from the bustling city below.
Banks Peninsula & Akaroa
Back in the campervan, I wound my way through the scenic Banks Peninsula toward Akaroa. The town's unique French heritage is unmistakable, with colonial architecture giving it an air of a French village oddly nestled in a landscape more reminiscent of the west coast of Scotland. While the harbor's free camping area was already full, I found a spot in a nearby campsite, allowing me time to stroll the charming streets and learn more about Akaroa’s fascinating past.
Christchurch and its surroundings proved to be places of deep contrast and enduring appeal. From urban resilience and artistic depth to panoramic views and historic villages, this weekend was a testament to the diverse experiences New Zealand offers – rain or shine.
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